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#1 LouReed

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 10:03 AM

I have a DN 5592 glass front that recently stopped taking bills. I've changed the validator (mars 2000 series), the coin mech (mei 7000) and the harness. After powering up it will take the first bill properly, but after that it sucks in the bill about 1/3 of the way and then spits it back out. Anybody have any thoughts? Thanks

#2 H4UV

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 10:48 AM

Did it do the same thing with the first validator? What are your switch settings set on the validator? Try setting switches 7 and 8 to "Short Pulse" and see if that makes a difference. Are you making a selection in between the bills you put in the validator? If your rows are priced at $1.00 or less, then it will not accept more bills until a selection is made and credit is cleared. Also, is there a flash code on the validator when it won't take the bill? You have probably already done this, but check the coin levels in the tubes.

#3 LouReed

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 12:20 PM

I should have mentioned in original post that the validator error light is solid. The original validator was replaced because it had no power. Nothing in the machine is priced under $2. Coin mech tubes are all full. I'm not making any selection, just trying to feed bills. I don't know the switch settings, but i tried a variety of settings.

#4 vend1ng

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Posted 29 June 2011 - 11:44 PM

Did it do the same thing with the first validator? What are your switch settings set on the validator? Try setting switches 7 and 8 to "Short Pulse" and see if that makes a difference. Are you making a selection in between the bills you put in the validator? If your rows are priced at $1.00 or less, then it will not accept more bills until a selection is made and credit is cleared. Also, is there a flash code on the validator when it won't take the bill? You have probably already done this, but check the coin levels in the tubes.

Switch settings wouldn't matter or it wouldn't have taken the first bill. If it was topping the price it wouldn't even start to take bill in. Solid light means it should accept the bill. If I was a highly trained serviceman and repired coin mechs and validators I would probably think its the 25v 470MFD capacitor on the validator control board. Also I would stick my neck out and say the power cap is what is wrong with his first validator too. Just a thought.
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#5 LouReed

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 02:38 PM

I'm still working on this problem. Today I tried resetting all connections to the machines control board. After powering up, the machine successfully accepted 10 bills. After opening the door and then closing it again, the problem returned after 2 more bills. When you mentioned the capacitor on the validator control board, are you speaking about a board on the validator? It was suggested to me that a new (machine) control board might be the problem. I was also thinking the jumble of wires behind the door might be causing the issue. I'm not good with electrical, but could something be shorting out when I close the door? Still appreciative of any help you guys could give.

#6 vend1ng

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Posted 06 July 2011 - 11:57 PM

I'm still working on this problem. Today I tried resetting all connections to the machines control board. After powering up, the machine successfully accepted 10 bills. After opening the door and then closing it again, the problem returned after 2 more bills. When you mentioned the capacitor on the validator control board, are you speaking about a board on the validator? It was suggested to me that a new (machine) control board might be the problem. I was also thinking the jumble of wires behind the door might be causing the issue. I'm not good with electrical, but could something be shorting out when I close the door? Still appreciative of any help you guys could give.

Yes, On the validator. 90% of the problems with the MEI series 2000 validator is that capacitor. It is a 470mfd +or- 10% and it must be in that range. If you buy a capacitor checker and learn how to change that cap you will save your self 100's of dollars. The capacitance of that capacitor effects the correct operation of the validator. Even if you don't have a cap checker its worth the .69 to change the cap. Just a thought.
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#7 LouReed

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 06:29 AM

so you're of the mind that I tried two validators (the only 2 24 volt i had), both with the same capacitor problem?

#8 H4UV

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 08:21 AM

Yes, On the validator. 90% of the problems with the MEI series 2000 validator is that capacitor. It is a 470mfd +or- 10% and it must be in that range. If you buy a capacitor checker and learn how to change that cap you will save your self 100's of dollars. The capacitance of that capacitor effects the correct operation of the validator. Even if you don't have a cap checker its worth the .69 to change the cap. Just a thought.
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Those capacitors should be available at Newark.com. That would be strange if you had the same problem on two validators. It sounds like the validators might be okay. I would try one other working valdiator first, and if does the same thing, I might venture to guess that somehow the credit line on the board is malfunctioning somehow. I have worked on other peoples machines before, where the validator will consistently take a few bills, then every 6-7 one, it will take it and not show credit, or not take it at all. Problems like that usually end up being main control board problems.

#9 VendingPro

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 08:30 AM

Yes, On the validator. 90% of the problems with the MEI series 2000 validator is that capacitor. It is a 470mfd +or- 10% and it must be in that range. If you buy a capacitor checker and learn how to change that cap you will save your self 100's of dollars. The capacitance of that capacitor effects the correct operation of the validator. Even if you don't have a cap checker its worth the .69 to change the cap. Just a thought.
Vend1ng


vend1ng: Would you mind providing the link or website where someone might purchase the capacitor tester, and the capacitor itself?

#10 validatorman

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 06:15 PM

You can get the capicator at any radio shack..I think it is a 35v but I don't have one in front of me to check. Just look at the cap and it will have the specs printed on it. Make sure you pay attention to the polarity when you install the new one.

#11 vend1ng

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 11:39 PM

so you're of the mind that I tried two validators (the only 2 24 volt i had), both with the same capacitor problem?

Yes, With the info that you have given. 1. first validator no power, power is supplied by the machine it should go in to startup when powered up it doesn't. It has power because second vali powers up. There fore it would probably be in vali power circuit and the cap is the weak link. 2. second vali powers up takes first dollar then takes bill in and rejects rest. No logical reason would cause that except faulty cap. Capacitor charges up and discharges if it can't do it within its perimeters its like having wrong capacitor. If you look in the back of first vali while powered up and see a red light flash inside the vali plate "IT IS THE CAP". Just a thought
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#12 vend1ng

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Posted 07 July 2011 - 11:50 PM

vend1ng: Would you mind providing the link or website where someone might purchase the capacitor tester, and the capacitor itself?

Newark will have both checker and cap. It is a 25v cap I've been upping them to 35v I have yet to replace any that I have upgraded but that doesn't really say much. If you use a 35v then you have to be aware of the physical size. The ones that I had been getting from Newark have been discontinued I'm sure they have others but since then my local supplier stocks them for me. Radio Shack should have them but I would probably get the 25v so the size would be closer. You have a limited space you can go just a little taller and not much wider. If you get it to long it will go together but the rear optic won't work. If all else fails I could probably send you some. Just a thought.
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