9 replies to this topic

[Vic]

Hello again...

 

Here is the history of my problem...I have been going through the 320 manual but need some direction. I put this machine in service two weeks ago. Pull down time to zero degrees F was about an hour or so. That temperature was maintained until I checked the machine the next week and temperature was holding. I loaded it and it was lights out when I visited again a week later (last Monday). I asked around and everything was fine last Saturday. Some strong thunderstorms rolled through on Sunday and everything was warm and thawed by Monday. ..machine was at ambient temperature. Question...could the storms and an electrical surge have tripped something in the machine? Any circuit breakers to check? I checked the temperature setting using the control module and it still read 0 degrees F. I understand from the manual that the frozen setting must be designated on the food control board attached to the refrigeration unit so that is the default if the FCB stops communication with a second control board in the machine. I did not check this due to ignorance and I assumed the setting was correct because the machine was cooling. Question: Could a freezing temperature have been maintained even if the setting on the FCB was wrong with the warm-up developing later and not staying frozen because of an improper setting on the FCB?

 

I ramble. I am going back to try to figure out the problem on Saturday and will continue trying to make sense of the manual. Any insights and ideas you might provide would be appreciated. I am hoping it is something simple and not just bad luck for a major refrigeration problem to develop so soon after acquiring a clean and apparently well functioning (initially) machine.

 

Regards,

 

Vic

[AZVendor]

The frozen cabinet won't maintain any temperature if the master machine loses power or it's programming. The jumper setting of the FDB must match the temp range set in the master board for proper cooling operation. This doesn't force the cooling to run on its own as an override - it only needs to match the temp range.

If your master lost its temperature setting then it could have been caused by a power outage or a surge if such power issue caused a reset of the master board. You can only reset everything that might be incorrect in the master and then see if the compressor cools. Set your temperature to -10 for proper freezing. If your master again loses its programming then you might have a bad board.

[Vic]

Update...I checked settings on the FDB and the machine and set the temperature to -10F. While poking around the FDB I discovered the wire to the window heater was disconnected..,hence the previous condensation problem. I also noticed a blinking status light on the FDB. From the manual it seems that meant 117v not getting to the refrigeration unit. The cord was plugged in as it should have been. I plugged the machine into another dedicated outlet and it started to cool immediately. It pulled down from 70 to 14 degrees in about 30 minutes. I went back last night and the temp exceeded the lower limit of my digital thermometer. Makes me think the problem may have been storm/surge related. Of course, it was mentioned a recurrence might mean a bad board...I'll keep my fingers crossed.  I have a USI CB500 in the same location, but that was not affected...it has a built-in surge protector in the power cord. Should I us a surge protector with the frozen machine to avoid a similar problem in the future? If yes what brand/type do you recommend? Last point/question...I did not set the defrost...as I understood the manual, the defrost cycle defaults to midnight when the machine is shut down...I figured that would work for me.

 

Thanks again for all of the help!

[AZVendor]

Your machine was plugged into a dead outlet, so be prepared for that to happen again.  The FDB will get it's power from the MDB circuit of the tower or snack machine that this is slaved to so that's why the FDB can have power while no 110v circuits in the machine work.  The FDB does have a light that will flash at a steady pace which is considered the "heartbeat."  There is a separate LED for the compressor and for the defrost circuit and those two LEDs will be solid when either of those circuits have power.  It's good that you found the door heater unplugged because you don't want a fogged inner door. 

 

Do not put a surge protector of any kind on the frozen cabinet.  You can put one on the snack/tower to protect it but the frozen cabinet pulls too much current for a surge protector.  Also make sure that nothing is on the same circuit as the frozen cabinet except the snack/tower.  This circuit must be 20 amps and not have any high current device sharing the circuit with the frozen cabinet.

[Vic]

Thanks again...the circuit is dedicated to the machine and tower...I will check on the amps...

[Vic]

Hello...still struggling with this machine. Problem occurred three times and I have had it out of service for a week or so. The machine cools quickly to -10F and I have it set for frozen foods. Problem is that it works for 7-10 days and then stops cooling. I have had to toss product twice and ran it empty the third time with the same result...cools fine and then stops cooling. The circuit is dedicated 20 amps but the plug on the machine has been replaced and the replacement is rated at only 15amps...I read one of AZ Vendor's responses to another member saying changing or altering a 20 amp plug could be hazardous. Can anyone out there make sense of this symptom? That is, any reasons you can think of that would make the machine stop cooling? Someone suggested it might be freezing up but there has been no evidence of water when the machine stops.  Could something have shaken loose when the machine was transported? I see a code that I think signifies that the compressor is not getting 117v (from the manual as I understand it). Sorry for the rambling post. Your help is appreciated.

[AZVendor]

Vic,

 

You need to be more specific with your description of the problem.  Just saying it stops cooling can mean anything from no power to the machine to an internal problem with the cooling unit to a logic board or relay problem.  There are probably other symptoms such as the error codes you are seeing.  All information about this needs to be posted for a good diagnosis.  It might even be better if you could call me tomorrow and I can discuss the possible issues with you so we don't go back and forth on the forum.  If you don't still have my number then you can PM me or email me.

 

Randy

[Vic]

Hello...

 

Still having issues with this machine. I was never able to put it in service but would like to try again. The machine is located in a fruit packing/processing plant that runs 24/7 in their busy season that it just beginning. I just left the machine idle in their slack season.

 

Here is the latest. Maintainance at the location claims 30amp service but the machine is not on a separate circuit; apparently everything in the break room is on the same circuit. this includes a USI CB 500 drink machine, a USI 44 selection snack machine, a small refrigerator, and three microwaves. The 320 is communicating with the control module, 120v is going to the junction box in the machine and 118v is being sent from the FDB to the refigeration deck.

 

Now, however, it does not seem the compressor goes on at all and the machine does not cool. Temperature was set to -10 F and the jumper is in the proper position. The condenser fan does go on for a time and the machine the goes into a safety out of service mode. I poked around the compressor and its wiring and don't see anything loose.

 

Ideas appreciated...

 

Thanks!

 

Vic

[AZVendor]

If the condenser fan runs then there is power to the compressor as well.  In that event you should sit and listen for the sound of the compressor trying to start.  If it's a bad compressor it will click on, possibly drawing down the lights or you may see a slight flicker in the lights of the machine, and then within a couple of seconds the compressor will click off without starting.  If this is happening then it's a bad compressor.  Throughout this condition the condenser fan will continue running as the temp sensor is calling for it.  At no time will the machine stop calling for the compressor unless you open the inner door.  Until that time the condensing fan will keep running as the compressor repeats this cycle while trying to start.

 

I will tell you that all of those machines on one circuit, I don't care how big the breaker is, is an overloaded circuit which can cause a bad compressor.  This machine needs a dedicated 20 amp circuit.

[rmorris1953]

Circuit is overloaded. 2 microwaves will pull 25 amps alone. 1500 watts X 2 =3000/120=25 amps. My best guess is during breaks when everything is in use the frozen is running on low voltage. It will run that way for a while but will overheat and shutdown on the overload. Then after a while will restart after cooling down. I would trip breaker and see if everything is actually on the circuit. Can't imagine all that on a 30 amp breaker. The outlets would burn up IMO. AZ is correct about a dedicated outlet. Eventually you will burn up compressor and those are not cheap to replace. $400 plus... Unfortunately the only way to know for sure is to have a volt meter that will log voltage. Not cheap. I have one just for situations like this.